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 (4) 38.5/14.50/15 TSL's on 5x5.5 rims

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antagonist84cj7

antagonist84cj7


Male Number of posts : 152
Age : 37
Location : Chase
Registration date : 2009-12-16

(4) 38.5/14.50/15 TSL's on 5x5.5 rims Empty
PostSubject: (4) 38.5/14.50/15 TSL's on 5x5.5 rims   (4) 38.5/14.50/15 TSL's on 5x5.5 rims EmptyTue Mar 01, 2011 9:26 pm

$1300/obo (4) 38.5/14.50/15 TSL's on 5x5.5 rims (CJ or 1/2 ton ford rim) 400 miles on the tires

The tires and rims are almost new, I just decided not to upgrade to full sized ford axles.

(4) 38.5/14.50/15 TSL's on 5x5.5 rims Jeep4
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CamoK5
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CamoK5


Number of posts : 284
Location : Havre de Grace
Registration date : 2009-02-03

(4) 38.5/14.50/15 TSL's on 5x5.5 rims Empty
PostSubject: Re: (4) 38.5/14.50/15 TSL's on 5x5.5 rims   (4) 38.5/14.50/15 TSL's on 5x5.5 rims EmptyWed Mar 02, 2011 8:46 am

Bummer bigger is better .............................. lol!
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antagonist84cj7

antagonist84cj7


Male Number of posts : 152
Age : 37
Location : Chase
Registration date : 2009-12-16

(4) 38.5/14.50/15 TSL's on 5x5.5 rims Empty
PostSubject: Re: (4) 38.5/14.50/15 TSL's on 5x5.5 rims   (4) 38.5/14.50/15 TSL's on 5x5.5 rims EmptyFri Mar 04, 2011 5:09 am

CamoK5 wrote:
Bummer bigger is better .............................. lol!

That's why I'm not upgrading to 1/2 ton ford axles... Very Happy
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CamoK5
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CamoK5


Number of posts : 284
Location : Havre de Grace
Registration date : 2009-02-03

(4) 38.5/14.50/15 TSL's on 5x5.5 rims Empty
PostSubject: Re: (4) 38.5/14.50/15 TSL's on 5x5.5 rims   (4) 38.5/14.50/15 TSL's on 5x5.5 rims EmptySun Mar 06, 2011 7:31 pm

antagonist84cj7 wrote:
CamoK5 wrote:
Bummer bigger is better .............................. lol!

That's why I'm not upgrading to 1/2 ton ford axles... Very Happy

Rockwells cheers

BTW I'm looking for a Wagoneer pass drop 44, keep an eye out.
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antagonist84cj7

antagonist84cj7


Male Number of posts : 152
Age : 37
Location : Chase
Registration date : 2009-12-16

(4) 38.5/14.50/15 TSL's on 5x5.5 rims Empty
PostSubject: Re: (4) 38.5/14.50/15 TSL's on 5x5.5 rims   (4) 38.5/14.50/15 TSL's on 5x5.5 rims EmptyMon Mar 07, 2011 7:32 am

CamoK5 wrote:
Rockwells cheers

Well, maybe not that big... Very Happy I got a D60 & 14BFF, and a 15"rim won't fit over the brakes :(
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CamoK5
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(4) 38.5/14.50/15 TSL's on 5x5.5 rims Empty
PostSubject: Modifying a Dana 60 to run 15" rims   (4) 38.5/14.50/15 TSL's on 5x5.5 rims EmptyTue Mar 08, 2011 12:02 am

See me at work and I'll print the pictures.


Modifying a Dana 60 to run 15" rims
Now, time to start working on the calipers. Always remember, safety first! You can't wheel if your in the hospital or dead. So, set the parking brake, block the rear wheels, jack up the front axle and set it securely on jack stands, and then remove the front wheels. The next thing I did was to clean it up good with a wire brush and spray it with some gray rattle can primer I had setting around. I used this like a body man (used to be one) uses a "guide coat" to find high spots. With a nice uniform coat of dull primer on the caliper, any place that the wheel touches will be very easy to spot. Any kind of paint will work, but I prefer primer since it dries really fast and covers the ground areas in one coat. With primer, your ready for another test fit just about as quick as you can get the wheel back on the hub.




Next, put the wheel on. Push it as far back as you can. On mine, the caliper side lacked about 1/2 inch or so going all the way back. Look at the back side and estimate where the back of the wheel will be when this is completed. You do not need to grind any further back that that so pick up some visual queues (or mark it) to remember. Now, holding the wheel in place, turn it back and forth a few times and then pull it off. You should be able to see clearly where it is rubbing. Take a scribe (or the grinder) and mark fairly straight line at the point where the back of the wheel will ultimately set. When your done with the grinding, there will be a small ledge here. Then I took the grinder and hit every point that was showing contact with the wheel using the edge of the wheel. Take each one down about 1/16" in the beginning, digging in less and less as you get closer to the final fit. This "trough" also helps you keep up with the "high point" while grinding away. Don't get into too big a hurry, you don't want to remove any more metal than absolutely necessary. After you have turned all the "high points" into "low points" you need to blend those small troughs into the surrounding area till it looks uniform and smooth. If you keep the grinding area looking smooth and uniform, the "high point" will generally indicate a larger high area or dome. So, your blending area will be 1-2" in diameter around the high point. Again, don't get carried away, take your time. It will require many test fit and grind cycles to get it right, be patient.

Once you have all the troughs blended in, spray a light coat of primer, just enough to get a somewhat uniform dull color. Your not looking for full coverage, just the uniform dull color. Put the wheel back on, look at the back side to see where you are on your reference (back limit) line, turn the wheel back-and-forth a few times, and remove it. You should see a different pattern of scuff marks, grind them into troughs, blend them in, repeat. Again, as you get closer, reduce the depth of the troughs you cut on the high points. You don't want to over shoot.

Here is an example of what the scuff marks look like (indicated by yellow arrows) and how I am using the reference back limit line (indicated by the red arrows).




When you get it to a point where the wheel goes all the way back and you can turn the wheel without scuffing, put a couple of lug nuts on and snug them down. I had to repeat the sequence twice at the end to get it to turn free with the lug nuts on. When your done, take the grinder and smooth out any sharp edges to reduce stress points. A nice fat radius on corners is what your looking for. I primed mine after finishing just so the amount of material removed would be easier to make out in the pics. The ground surface just didn't give a clear perception of what was done. I also left the back ridge fairly square for the same reason. I will round it off and blend it in a bit before calling it done. Below you can see the results. It's hard to tell but there is still ALOT of material left in ground areas of that caliper. The area around the hole is the thinnest part and it gets much thicker as you move away from the hole. It's strength is in no way compromised by the modifications, it's still thicker than a 1/2 ton caliper.




So, the total job used less than 25% of a 1/4" abrasive disk on a 4.5" grinder to do each side. The second side went MUCH faster since I knew about what I was looking for. All total, I removed about 1/8" or a little more across the entire outer surface of the caliper. The largest amount of material (almost 1/4" depth wise) came off the outer ears of the caliper mounting brackets. No modifications were necessary to the backing plate.




One other thing to be aware of. The GM calipers align on the rotor and adjust automatically for pad wear. If you have worn out pads, the caliper will be pulled back toward the king pins to compensate for the wear. New pads will cause it to stick out further to the outside and, deeper into the wheel. If you have worn pads, you would do well to go ahead and change them now rather than risk having to grind more on it later just to clear after installing new pads. That's it, no big deal.

Disclaimer: As always, standard disclaimers apply. Making these modifications is your choice and yours alone. You should consider any modifications to the brake or steering system very carefully. If your not comfortable making these modifications yourself, take it to someone you trust, or don't do it at all. I do believe this modification is safe, after all, my son and daughter will be riding in this rig. However, I make no claims about the effect this modification will have to the caliper strength. I can only say that the modified caliper appears to still be much stronger than the 1/2 ton caliper, even after removing all that material. I can also say that many people have made this modification and I don't know of any caliper failures due to the modification. This modification is intended for off-road use only.



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antagonist84cj7

antagonist84cj7


Male Number of posts : 152
Age : 37
Location : Chase
Registration date : 2009-12-16

(4) 38.5/14.50/15 TSL's on 5x5.5 rims Empty
PostSubject: Re: (4) 38.5/14.50/15 TSL's on 5x5.5 rims   (4) 38.5/14.50/15 TSL's on 5x5.5 rims EmptyTue Mar 08, 2011 7:36 am

CamoK5 wrote:
See me at work and I'll print the pictures.

Sounds good to me! Thanks Very Happy
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(4) 38.5/14.50/15 TSL's on 5x5.5 rims Empty
PostSubject: Re: (4) 38.5/14.50/15 TSL's on 5x5.5 rims   (4) 38.5/14.50/15 TSL's on 5x5.5 rims Empty

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